I recently traveled northeast to to good state of North Carolina. (North Carolina cannot be called "great" because "great" is Texas.) Among my many goals while in North Carolina, more specifically Raleigh, was to taste this thing called "Carolina BBQ." Barbecue is bar-b-que is BBQ, right? Wrong. So very wrong. There are four agreed upon regions of US barbecue, and are broken up thusly:
Memphis - Pork ribs served either dry (straight from the smoker or grill) or wet (slathered in BBQ sauce).
Kansas City - Known less for the type of meat it highlights than the sticky sweet tomato-based sauce (KC Masterpiece, anyone?). Generally sauces are featured best on chicken or pork ribs.
Texas - Features smoked brisket, dry rub, smoker, and long and low cooking. The brisket is never sauced during the smoking/cooking process but may be served with sauce on the side when ready to eat.
Carolina - It is a Carolina BBQ joint if the menu featured pulled or shredded pork and a vinegar-based sauce. The pork is always slow roasted for the deep smoky flavor, then shredded (not sliced!) and possibly put on a bun before serving.
If you were to find four people who each grew up in one of these four regions and then asked them to choose which 'cue is best, don't hold your breath waiting for a decision. Being from Texas, I think that a good brisket, with its pink smoke ring and spicy crust of rub, is just about the best thing a person could savor. But, I am not so close-minded as to think all other BBQs are inferior. Just that Texas 'cue is a hair better. So, it was with this attitude I went to Ole Time Barbecue on the outskirts of Raleigh, North Carolina.
I do not think I have been to a place that better embodied "roadside cafe" than Ole Time Barbecue. It is literally on the side of the highway. A car could lose control and go crashing through the establishment at any moment. Which I think makes the eating experience all the more thrilling and unique. Upon entering, you seat yourself at any one of the 8 or so tables. Prominently showcased on the wall are pictures of family, awards they've won, the plaque saying they can seat no more than 49 people, and lots of down-home, Southern decor. I ordered water, much to the shock of my dinner companion who thinks the only drink that goes with Carolina 'cue is sweet tea. I am daring, but I also like my teeth in my mouth and sugar for dessert. I ordered the chopped BBQ pork plate with green beans and sweet potato sticks.
While waiting for the food to arrive, I devoured plenty of hush puppies. These hush puppies are divine. I know, I know, it is just fried dough, but that was some fantastic fried dough. Crunchy on the outside, pillowy on the inside. Not dry, not overly greasy, and not too heavy. The food arrived soon and looked pretty good. It came on a plate, which is uncommon with Texas 'cue, usually it is presented on some butcher paper. Green beans, mediocre. Sweet potato sticks, holy cow these are good! I do not know how or what they did to the esteemed sweet potato, but it was incredible. Like mashed sweet potato in the inside, crunchy shell on the outside. Yum, yum, yum.
It was time for me to try the pork. It did not look bad, sitting there shredded with little bits of what I assumed to be pepper seeds. I took a tentative bite.
I love brisket. I have mentioned this already, I know. Love brisket. And sausage. And smoked turkey. And chicken. Love it all. Love the sides (cole slaw, baked beans, and potato salad). Love the serving platter (paper). Love that you are allowed to get messy eating it. Love it all. But, my gracious, if pulled pork is not one of the best things this little mouth has tasted in a long while. I feel like I need to turn in my "Texan" card or something. I still love you brisket!
The pork was moist, perfectly flavored with vinegar and spices and rubs. It was simple. No need to add sauce, pepper, salt or anything. Simple and yet, I knew, this simple food took years for the owners of Ole Time Barbecue to master. I sat there in awe. However, I could not let my Carolinian dinner partner know my thoughts. I would not have heard the end of the Texas razzing. (Well, I guess you know now, huh? Oh well.)
That was a darn fine meal. But, at the table, there was a little bottle labeled "Texas Heat." So, even though Carolina 'cue got a point or few on the board, I have proof that Carolina still needs a little Texas.
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